Every day we get on our bus and are greeted by Uri with the same words, "Today is going to be a great day." And every day, he is absolutely right. Today was no exception to this rule. We were woken up a little early by the Israeli Air Force flying fighter jets over our hotel patrolling the borders with Lebanon and Syria. Another gentle reminder that we are indeed in the Middle East. Although, I have to say that there was a certain type of calm that came over me as I heard these jets pass again and again as I truly felt that if there was an issue the military would handle it. A very different feeling than if this was happening in the United States.
After breakfast we boarded our bus and drove to the Tel Dan Nature Reserve where we took a lovely nature walk through dense forest. It was so green, so beautiful that you almost forgot you were in Israel! When you think of the Middle East you think of sand mountains and dust storms, not lush green scapes with trees growing everywhere and running water giving you a soothing sound. There were so many picturesque places to take photos. Our hike ended at a little pond where we were able to take off our shoes and wade into the cold, crisp water. Uri used this time to explain where we were on the map of Israel, this time portrayed so beautifully by Jacob with landmarks taped to different parts of his body. Uri also showed us some fresh animal droppings and taught us how to tell what kind of animal left them by the smell and, yes taste. Then he scooped up a piece of the droppings and proceeded to eat one. He then offered a piece to each child and everyone gladly took a piece (Uri fooled us with candy).
As we finished the trail and returned to the parking lot we were greeted by 8 jeeps waiting to take us off-roading up into the Golan Heights, following in the footstep of the IDF soldiers and their battles in the Six Day War. This was not a Disneyland tour, but rather actual off-roading. We were tossed around as we traveled with mine fields on both sides of us up into the mountains so we could understand the strategic significance of the Golan Heights. It was a riot to see Leasa, Carly and Hayley as they were thrown about the back of the jeep. I was. So grateful that Meredith was there to catch Hayley and her hat which flew off many times. There were sounds of screaming and laughter all the way up the hill.
When we reached the top we stopped at a Syrian military outpost where one of the big battles of the Six Day War took place. Uri spoke about how the Golani troops took this Syrian outpost against all odds back in 1967. To hear about the bravery shown by our Israel brothers as they marched up the hill and would not stop until they had captured the outpost. We learned of a spy who worked his way up in the Syrian regime who convinced the Syrian government to plant trees (not indigenous to the area) as a way to create shade for the Syrian troops. Of course it also served as a locator for the Israeli military once the war started. Uri shared the story of a soldier who, after unsuccessfully trying to blow a hole in the barbed wire fence actually laid on top of the sharp wire and let his brothers walk on his back advancing towards the hostile Syrian troops. It is this kind of selfless, heroic act that we hear about again and again in Israel. Uri explained that the soldiers had an extra incentive to succeed, for all they had to do was turn around and look down the mountain and see their home to understand the implications of defeat. Indeed there were many soldiers who would lay on top of a barbed wire fence and let others walk across his body, indeed there are many soldiers, both men and women today who would show this kind of heroic bravery. Uri shared that the strategy of the Israeli military was a two hit plan... We hit them and they hit the ground. There was no plan B, no contingency. It truly was a miraculous victory and I think we all understand why it is so important for Israel to hold onto the Golan Heights. We also are beginning to understand the complexities of the notion of giving back the Golan Heights in exchange for peace with Syria. It is a complicated and difficult situation.
Following our discussion we were able to climb into the underground bunker and have a look around before having a snack of fresh watermelon before reboarding our bus.
Our next stop was a Druze village even closer to the Syrian border for lunch. We learned so many interesting things about the Druze people, who are not Arab nor Jewish. Indeed the Druze broke away from Islam some 1000 years ago. We. Learned about some of the challenges facing these people living in the Golan Heights. We stopped at the village called Mas'ade for an amazing lunch of felafel and other yummy treats. It was a feast for the ages. I couldn't believe how modern and built up the Druze village was. I guess I was expecting tents, not a modern suburban village.
Our next stop took us close to the Syrian border where we could look and actually see into Syria. This view was much closer than the view I experienced two years ago, and I felt like I could actually reach out and touch this dangerous place. Uri explained the situation happening in Syria now. He explained it not as a civil war, but a world war where the Shia want to destroy the Sunnis and create a Muslim empire dictated by Sharia law. He connected Shia and Sunni to Hezbollah and Hamas, and ISIL, and we really could understand that this is a complex situation. Looking at the Syrian border we could see a stark difference between Israel and Syria. Israel was green, filled with crops and a lush landscape. Syria, on the other hand, was desolate and uncared for. Uri showed us a UN outpost that was abandoned and taken over by Jabhat al-Nusra, who is connected to al Queda. We were so close to this that it felt like we could take a stone and hit the building. We hear of these kinds of things from America and it took my breath away to actually see it... In the USA we are so sheltered, even though we are aware, we do not understand what it means to live next to such terrorism.
As Uri was talking we began to hear canon fire in the distance. And then more pops of canon fire. This was a little frightening (although we were never in any danger). Eventually we could see a plume of smoke in the distance, no doubt a result of some kind of attack in Syria. It was another sobering reminder that Israel is surrounded by potential hostile neighbors and she must be prepared to engage at any moment. Who knows if the war in Syria will ever spill in to Israel, but one lesson of the Yom Kippur war of 1973 is that Israel must be prepared.
We all went back to the bus feeling a bit uneasy from the sight of the battle that was in the town just across the border. But our uneasiness soon was changed to excitement as we prepared for our next activity, which was a choice between chocolate making at the De Karina Chocolate Factory and wine tasting at the Behat winery. The kids (and some adults) had a blast creating their own special desserts that would be able to enjoy later. The adults loved tasting the four wines, toasting to our trip and our friendship, and even purchasing some wine to enjoy later in our trip.
It was surreal to think that just around the mountain we were witness to a battle in Syria, and here we were, feeling totally safe and protected, eating chocolate and drinking wine on the Syrian border. Only in Israel! Why do we feel safe? Why is it that at no point on this trip have we ever felt in any kind of jeaordy? I think it has to do with the Israeli spirit you have heard me talk about. I know that they are doing everything they can to keep me, my family, and my family of travelers safe. I have so much trust in the military in Israel, knowing that they have accomplished so many important victories. I feel safe because I see the pride Israelis take in making me feel safe. You see that pride in the young men and women taking their places as a part of the military ready to lay down their lives for Israel. It is inspiring beyond words. I hope to take some of that inspiration home with me as I share my love for Israel with others.
On our way down the hill off of the Golan Heights and back into the Hula Valley Uri played us a couple of songs that had to do with war, specifically the Yom Kippur War of 1973. The first was the Last War and is written from the perspective of a father singing to his daughter, promising that this war (speaking of the 1973 Yom Kippur War) would be the last war.
"For the pilots who broke through the deadly battle
And we're hit with rocket fire and ac-ac guns,
For the paratroopers who, amid lead and smoke,
Saw you overhead, like an angel.
I promise you - my little girl,
That this will be the last war."
The second song was the Winter of Seventy Three with words by Shmuel Hasfari. It is written from the perspective of that daughter all grown up and now a soldier herself. She says:
"When we were born, the old men
Gave blessing with tearful eyes.
They said - please God,
These children won't go to war.
... We are the children
Of the winter of seventy three.
Now we too have grown up to be soldiers
With rifles and helmeted heads...
We too are men,
We too are women,
We too dram of babies."
Both of these selections rally capture what Israel was feeling during the military struggles of her history.
Our next stop was a purely fun and adventurous activity. We went rafting down the Jordan River. Actually, it was more like a lazy river for an hour and a half. But it was terrific. The water fights that happened between our boats was epic and totally fun. Our water fights with some of the birthright kids was also really fun. It was a great way to end our day of touring the north of Israel. Thank you, David Messe for the photos.
After a delicious dinner we split up for evening activities. The kids went with Shachar, our youth counselor for a kids program while the adults met with Uri to discuss the Geopolitical situation in Israel, trying to wrap our heads around the conflict between Israel and the Palestinians. It was an informative dialogue with Uri, who is so knowledgable about so many things. He is really opening my eyes to the complexity of the situation. I feel more prepared to engage in meaningful dialogue, and feel like I have the tools to find answers to the many questions I have.
It is amazing to think about all we took in today. From the fun activities like the nature walk, jeep tour and rafting to the serious activities like being in the Golan Heights, looking into Syria and trying to understand the facts surrounding the Israeli Palestinian conflict, we experienced it all. I hope you will consider coming to Israel with TAE in a couple of years so you can experience this like I am...
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