Today we say farewell to the Hula Valley and the north of Israel and head south to Tel Aviv, the final stop on our tour of Israel. It is so hard to believe that after two years of planning, preparing and anticipating we are getting ready to say goodbye to Israel. You can see the mood of our group changing as we get closer to the end of the trip. People are speaking about how much they will miss Israel, and how special the trip has been. It has been a special experience to say the least.
Today we got another early start as we loaded up the bus and left the beautiful surroundings of Kfar Blum, this oasis in the north. Our first stop would be Park Alona as we would walk through the 2000 year old water tunnel built by the Romans that served as the water source for Caesarea, the city built by King Herod more than 2000 years ago in tribute to Caesar.
We were amazed once again at the ingenuity of the Romans who built this water system entirely by hand without the help of modern machinery. It must have taken years to carve through the stone under ground in order to bring fresh water to this city. With flashlight in hand we once again walked through a dark tunnel under ground with our legs wading in the knee, sometimes waist, deep cool, refreshing water.
After our walk through the water tunnel we went to lunch at a local mall with various food options. Leasa and I felt kind of silly as we traveled half way around the world so we could eat Pizza Hut, but we redeemed ourselves by having an Iced Aroma for dessert. For those of you who do not know, Aroma is the coffee store in Israel that is the reason why Starbucks would never survive here. It is a staple in Israel and a place I look forward to coming back to again and again. Indeed, it puts our coffee houses in America to shame.
Once lunch was over we took the short bus ride to Caesarea, one of the land of Israel's most important cities during the Roman Period. As we approached this city we got our first view of the Mediterranean Sea. In Caesarea we saw the 2000 year old Herodian Theatre, a 4500 seat theatre that was the place for culture during King Herod's reign. We sat in the ancient stone seats like the Romans would, and Uri recalled all of Jewish history for us as he prepared us for the story of Caesarea. The coolest thing about this theatre is that it is still in use today, with major concerts being held here. As we sat in the theatre, crews were setting up for the next concert which is going to feature local Israel artists. I would love to see a show in this theatre, with the Mediterranean Sea crashing behind the stage. During our visit to the theatre the wind was blowing a gentle breeze that swayed the speakers hanging from the proscenium.
As we walked behind the stage of the theatre we were treated to our first full view of the Mediterranean Sea. You could smell the salt in the air, and the sky was a crisp blue color, not impeded by the smog that we see in California. There is something about the air in Israel that just feels cleaner and you can taste the pure Mediterranean air. We stopped at the ruins of the palace of King Herod and saw the remains of his ancient swimming pool and could almost envision him relaxing in the cool, clear water of his pool as the waters of the sea crash around him. It is a beautiful location indeed!
Our group liked the location as well because getting them to stop taking pictures here was a huge challenge! I can't blame them, I got caught up and stole a family picture there as proof the Shukiar family four was indeed in this beautiful place!
We then made our way to the Hippodrome, a chariot racing stadium built to house the major sporting events of the ancient Roman city. We sat in the bleachers where 10,000 screaming fans would sit cheering on their favorite chariot. You could almost see the Romans in the stands, some who have traveled the 8-10 day journey from Rome to see the sporting event. As we sat in these seats Uri shared with us that this was the hippodrome that was used to torture and kill the 10 Jewish leaders captured during the Roman conquest, a story we have heard and experienced through antiquities many times during the last 8 days. Uri shared how the scene would be horrific, with these leaders being lit on fire in front of the screaming fans and how they could stop the torture by renouncing Judaism. The fact that they chose to NOT renounce their faith while receiving such horrible torture and death brings up the question, did they make the right choice? Why not renounce Judaism and stop the torture? Maybe it comes from the same pride of the soldier who lays down on the exposed barbed wire so his brothers and sisters can run on top of his back towards the enemy to protect Israel. Maybe the mark left by these people was the fact that their faith was unshakable and that we should try to strengthen our own connection to our faith. What is our legacy? What are we leaving behind? What are we here to accomplish, not just in Israel but also in life? What is our impact?
Uri also shared that this place was used in celebration at the conquest of Israel by the Romans. But here we were, sitting on Roman ruins, in a Jewish state, wearing our Judaism with pride. For us to be sitting in this place, at this time, thinking of all the times that people have tried to destroy us, was very powerful. I could tell that this was an important moment not just for me, but for all of those in our traveling party as we prepare to bring our love of Israel home with us.
Uri led us to the sands of the beach next to the hippodrome at Caesarea. Here we learned of another hero of Israel, poet and soldier Hannah Sennesh, a World War 2 heroine who sacrificed her life trying to save people in Eastern Europe. Standing on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea we sang her famous song, Eili, Eili, written, perhaps, in this very location. We stood in a circle with our arms wrapped around each other. I saw and felt people with tears in their eyes as we sang her lyrics:
"Oh Lord, my God
I pray they these things never end,
The sand and the sea
The rush of the water
The crash of the heaven
The prayer of woman and man."
Uri then gave us about five minutes to take our family and find a private corner of the beach to share our priorities and purpose in life. To do this ritual with our daughters brought tears to Leasa's and my eyes, as our girls expressed their pride in being Jewish in spite of all the complications that Judaism brings to our lives. They both shared how their faith has been strengthened by our visit to Israel and that, because of our trip, they feel even more connected than before. There are no sweeter words that I can hear than these that say with conviction that in spite of our troubled history, and in spite of the fact that so many people want to see us removed from the earth let alone Israel, my girls are proud to be Jewish and proud to be a part of the history of Judaism as they add their link to the chain of Judaism. This was a special way to end our time in Caesarea.
We then made our way to Tel Aviv, a metropolis that is the antithesis to Jerusalem. The city is alive and hip, and my kids could not wait to get their feet wet in the Mediterranean Sea. Watching the sunset at a cafe on the beach with dear friends in Israel, my home in the east, was the perfect ending to another perfect day here. As sad as I am that the trip is coming to an end, I am so grateful for the opportunity to be here with my family, watching them fall in love with the place I truly fell in love with two years ago. Watching my kids build a lifelong connection to Israel is something I will always hold close to my heart. Watching Leasa find her connection to this place, especially when she was not sure what her reaction would be is something I will always cherish. I hope that you will consider opening your heart to Israel. If you do, your life will forever be enhanced. What a precious gift to give to your children.
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