Nature and Security

I am having a tough time with my camera today, as it seems that I have taken more pictures than the iPad will allow (I have taken more than 1000 photos so far), so I will have to add the photos at a later date. I apologize and appreciate your patience.  

Every day we get on our bus and are greeted by Uri with the same words, "Today is going to be a great day."  And every day, he is absolutely right.  Today was no exception to this rule.  We were woken up a little early by the Israeli Air Force flying fighter jets over our hotel patrolling the borders with Lebanon and Syria.  Another gentle reminder that we are indeed in the Middle East.  Although, I have to say that there was a certain type of calm that came over me as I heard these jets pass again and again as I truly felt that if there was an issue the military would handle it.  A very different feeling than if this was happening in the United States.  

After breakfast we boarded our bus and drove to the Tel Dan Nature Reserve where we took a lovely nature walk through dense forest.  It was so green, so beautiful that you almost forgot you were in Israel!  When you think of the Middle East you think of sand mountains and dust storms, not lush green scapes with trees growing everywhere and running water giving you a soothing sound.  There were so many picturesque places to take photos.  Our hike ended at a little pond where we were able to take off our shoes and wade into the cold, crisp water.  Uri used this time to explain where we were on the map of Israel, this time portrayed so beautifully by Jacob with landmarks taped to different parts of his body.  Uri also showed us some fresh animal droppings and taught us how to tell what kind of animal left them by the smell and, yes taste.  Then he scooped up a piece of the droppings and proceeded to eat one.  He then offered a piece to each child and everyone gladly took a piece (Uri fooled us with candy).

As we finished the trail and returned to the parking lot we were greeted by 8 jeeps waiting to take us off-roading up into the Golan Heights, following in the footstep of the IDF soldiers and their battles in the Six Day War.  This was not a Disneyland tour, but rather actual off-roading.  We were tossed around as we traveled with mine fields on both sides of us up into the mountains so we could understand the strategic significance of the Golan Heights.  It was a riot to see Leasa, Carly and Hayley as they were thrown about the back of the jeep.  I was. So grateful that Meredith was there to catch Hayley and her hat which flew off many times.  There were sounds of screaming and laughter all the way up the hill.

When we reached the top we stopped at a Syrian military outpost where one of the big battles of the Six Day War took place.  Uri spoke about how the Golani troops took this Syrian outpost against all odds back in 1967.  To hear about the bravery shown by our Israel brothers as they marched up the hill and would not stop until they had captured the outpost.  We learned of a spy who worked his way up in the Syrian regime who convinced the Syrian government to plant trees (not indigenous to the area) as a way to create shade for the Syrian troops.  Of course it also served as a locator for the Israeli military once the war started.  Uri shared the story of a soldier who, after unsuccessfully trying to blow a hole in the barbed wire fence actually laid on top of the sharp wire and let his brothers walk on his back advancing towards the hostile Syrian troops.  It is this kind of selfless, heroic act that we hear about again and again in Israel.  Uri explained that the soldiers had an extra incentive to succeed, for all they had to do was turn around and look down the mountain and see their home to understand the implications of defeat. Indeed there were many soldiers who would lay on top of a barbed wire fence and let others walk across his body, indeed there are many soldiers, both men and women today who would show this kind of heroic bravery.  Uri shared that the strategy of the Israeli military was a two hit plan...  We hit them and they hit the ground.  There was no plan B, no contingency.  It truly was a miraculous victory and I think we all understand why it is so important for Israel to hold onto the Golan Heights.  We also are beginning to understand the complexities of the notion of giving back the Golan Heights in exchange for peace with Syria.  It is a complicated and difficult situation.

Following our discussion we were able to climb into the underground bunker and have a look around before having a snack of fresh watermelon before reboarding our bus.

Our next stop was a Druze village even closer to the Syrian border for lunch.  We learned so many interesting things about the Druze people, who are not Arab nor Jewish.  Indeed the Druze broke away from Islam some 1000 years ago.  We. Learned about some of the challenges facing these people living in the Golan Heights.  We stopped at the village called Mas'ade for an amazing lunch of felafel and other yummy treats.  It was a feast for the ages.  I couldn't believe how modern and built up the Druze village was.  I guess I was expecting tents, not a modern suburban village.  

Our next stop took us close to the Syrian border where we could look and actually see into Syria.  This view was much closer than the view I experienced two years ago, and I felt like I could actually reach out and touch this dangerous place.  Uri explained the situation happening in Syria now.  He explained it not as a civil war, but a world war where the Shia want to destroy the Sunnis and create a Muslim empire dictated by Sharia law.  He connected Shia and Sunni to Hezbollah and Hamas, and ISIL, and we really could understand that this is a complex situation.  Looking at the Syrian border we could see a stark difference between Israel and Syria.  Israel was green, filled with crops and a lush landscape.  Syria, on the other hand, was desolate and uncared for.  Uri showed us a UN outpost that was abandoned and taken over by Jabhat al-Nusra, who is connected to al Queda.  We were so close to this that it felt like we could take a stone and hit the building.  We hear of these kinds of things from America and it took my breath away to actually see it... In the USA we are so sheltered, even though we are aware, we do not understand what it means to live next to such terrorism.

As Uri was talking we began to hear canon fire in the distance.  And then more pops of canon fire.  This was a little frightening (although we were never in any danger).  Eventually we could see a plume of smoke in the distance, no doubt a result of some kind of attack in Syria.  It was another sobering reminder that Israel is surrounded by potential hostile neighbors and she must be prepared to engage at any moment.  Who knows if the war in Syria will ever spill in to Israel, but one lesson of the Yom Kippur war of 1973 is that Israel must be prepared. 

We all went back to the bus feeling a bit uneasy from the sight of the battle that was in the town just across the border.  But our uneasiness soon was changed to excitement as we prepared for our next activity, which was a choice between chocolate making at the De Karina Chocolate Factory and wine tasting at the Behat winery.  The kids (and some adults) had a blast creating their own special desserts that would be able to enjoy later.  The adults loved tasting the four wines, toasting to our trip and our friendship, and even purchasing some wine to enjoy later in our trip.  

It was surreal to think that just around the mountain we were witness to a battle in Syria, and here we were, feeling totally safe and protected, eating chocolate and drinking wine on the Syrian border.  Only in Israel!  Why do we feel safe? Why is it that at no point on this trip have we ever felt in any kind of jeaordy?  I think it has to do with the Israeli spirit you have heard me talk about.  I know that they are doing everything they can to keep me, my family, and my family of travelers safe.  I have so much trust in the military in Israel, knowing that they have accomplished so many important victories.  I feel safe because I see the pride Israelis take in making me feel safe.  You see that pride in the young men and women taking their places as a part of the military ready to lay down their lives for Israel.  It is inspiring beyond words.  I hope to take some of that inspiration home with me as I share my love for Israel with others.

On our way down the hill off of the Golan Heights and back into the Hula Valley Uri played us a couple of songs that had to do with war, specifically the Yom Kippur War of 1973. The first was the Last War and is written from the perspective of a father singing to his daughter, promising that this war (speaking of the 1973 Yom Kippur War) would be the last war.

"For the pilots who broke through the deadly battle

And we're hit with rocket fire and ac-ac guns,

For the paratroopers who, amid lead and smoke,

Saw you overhead, like an angel.

I promise you - my little girl,

That this will be the last war."

The second song was the Winter of Seventy Three with words by Shmuel Hasfari.  It is written from the perspective of that daughter all grown up and now a soldier herself.  She says:

"When we were born, the old men 

Gave blessing with tearful eyes.

They said - please God,

These children won't go to war.

... We are the children 

Of the winter of seventy three.

Now we too have grown up to be soldiers

With rifles and helmeted heads...

We too are men,

We too are women, 

We too dram of babies."

Both of these selections rally capture what Israel was feeling during the military struggles of her history.  

Our next stop was a purely fun and adventurous activity.  We went rafting down the Jordan River.  Actually, it was more like a lazy river for an hour and a half.  But it was terrific.  The water fights that happened between our boats was epic and totally fun.  Our water fights with some of the birthright kids was also really fun.  It was a great way to end our day of touring the north of Israel.  Thank you, David Messe for the photos.

After a delicious dinner we split up for evening activities.  The kids went with Shachar, our youth counselor for a kids program while the adults met with Uri to discuss the Geopolitical situation in Israel, trying to wrap our heads around the conflict between Israel and the Palestinians.  It was an informative dialogue with Uri, who is so knowledgable about so many things.  He is really opening my eyes to the complexity of the situation.  I feel more prepared to engage in meaningful dialogue, and feel like I have the tools to find answers to the many questions I have.

It is amazing to think about all we took in today.  From the fun activities like the nature walk, jeep tour and rafting to the serious activities like being in the Golan Heights, looking into Syria and trying to understand the facts surrounding the Israeli Palestinian conflict, we experienced it all.  I hope you will consider coming to Israel with TAE in a couple of years so you can experience this like I am...

Nature and Spirituality on the Road North part 2

After our visit to the kibbutz we continued our ride up north towards Tsfat.  As we made our way up the winding roads one of our travelers came forward with his shorts off asking for a special brush to remove thorns from his pants... Only in Israel will you see this, a boy in his underwear asking for a thorn removal brush near the Jordanian border as we travel towards Lebanon and Syria.  We all shared a great laugh and I couldn't resist getting a picture!  Needless to say that Uri left his thorn removal brush at home, leaving Bennett's father the chore of pulling out each of the thorns.

We arrived in the mystical center of Tsfat atop the hills above the Galilee.  Uri shared some history about mysticism and Kabbala to try to help us understand why visiting Tsfat was so important and not just a nice shopping stop...

We learned that Kabbala is a way of life, trying to take the mystical properties of Judaism and making them accessible to us all.  Kabbala tries to answer the toughest question of all, why are we here?  We learned the story of a man who climbed atop the shoulders of another man, and another man crawled atop his shoulders in order that they might reach God and pull down the answers to all of life's questions.  Here is Bennett and Gary showing us how this worked...

As the third man was standing on the second's shoulder they fell, pulled a piece of God with them and shattering it all over the floor.  Kabbala tells us that we must pick up all the pieces and put them back together again.  Tsfat is the center of mysticism and Kabbala.  The main book of Kabbala is the Zohar, written on the mountain directly across from Tsfat.  Tsfat has attracted many artists to come and create in this ancient city of the Mystics and we were able to spend time walking the same streets they did so long ago.

We went inside the Karo Synagogue, a synagogue still active today, and learned more.  The blue walls were so soothing, and the sanctuary items, the Ark and Bima were beautiful.  We saw a ganiza, a place where old Torah scrolls and prayer books are laid to rest when they are no longer useful.  Inside this glass ganiza we could see the actual ancient scrolls used by the rabbis who created mystical Judaism. 

We loved the giant mezuzah that was placed in the doorpost of the entrance to the synagogue.

Here is view of Mount Meron, where the Zohar is said to have been written in a cave.

I was especially taken and moved by the Eternal Light found in this sanctuary.  It was not a electric light like we have at TAE, but rather it was a simple candle.  There is powerful message in this.  If left alone, the candle would eventually go out and the Eternal Light would be no more.  In order for the light to be eternal, it requires us to tend to it, changing it and making sure it stays lit.  In other words, like our Torah teaches us, l'ha'alot neir tamid, we have to light the light eternally.  We have to be active in preserving this light.  Just like Kabbala teaches us that we must be active in performing acts of tikkun olam, repairing our world.  It is so easy to complain about issues, much harder to do something about them.  We are a people of action.  Kabbala also teaches us to live intentionally, not just to go through the motions but to allow ourselves to be truly present.  This is a running theme of our trip, not looking ahead but staying in the moment and truly being present for ourselves and others.  So many times during our trip I have seen our travelers being present for themselves or for others, allowing others to literally lean on them when needed.

Tsfat is famous for another historic reason.  It is the place where Shlomo Alkabeitz wrote the famous poem that has become a part of our Kabbalah Shabbat service, L'cha Dodi.  We sang the version created by the Kol Han'shama synagogue in Israel.  How awesome to sing these words in the very place they were created!  We all sang with intention, with a growing energy and enthusiasm.  Each one of us will never sing the L'cha Dodi the same again, for when we are in TAE singing this we will be back in Israel connected to the very place we were at today.  We will envision the kabbalists dressed in white running in the field right by where we were towards the sunset on Friday, singing and dancing the spirit of Shabbat towards us and joining her with our souls to allow us to experience Shabbat in a deeper and more meaningful way.  I can hardly wait to sing these words again with this community in Thousand Oaks.

After our visit to the Karo synagogue was complete, we had time to shop.  The judaica in Tsfat is unmatched anywhere else in Israel.  There were so many beautiful things to see, and I think our tour single handedly boosted the economy of this ancient town.  

An amazing thing happened to Leasa and me.  As we were looking in a store where an artist was creating art with microchaligraphy, I spotted our Ketubah, our Jewish marriage license.  It turns out that this was the very store, and this the very artist that created and sold our Ketubah to my parents when they were in Israel more than 20 years ago.  What an amazing thing to have walked into his studio and shop.  Only in Israel, only in Tsfat!

We loved seeing the artist's colony in Tsfat and wish we could have stayed there longer.

But, we had to leave so we could finish our journey for the day.  

After about 30 minutes we arrived in Kibbutz Kfar Blum, our next stop for the next two nights.  This place is one of my favorite places anywhere.  There is a peace here, a serenity that comes in spite of being a stone's throw from the Lebanese and Syrian borders.  

I can hardly wait to share the north of Israel with our travelers tomorrow.  They have yet to experience the magic of the north, and I can't wait to see their response to all we will do.  Israel is an incredible place and I am so blessed to be here.  I will stay present and in the moment, and I will explore all she has to offer with great kavana, with great intention. 

Nature and Spirituality on the Road North part 1

This is going to be another two part posting because of the number of pictures I want to share with you...

This morning we woke up and finished packing as we prepared to say goodbye to Jerusalem and take our tour up to the northern end of Israel.  As we boarded our bus and began our journey, I became very sad.  It is hard to explain, but I did not want to say goodbye to Jerusalem.  More than any other place in Israel I feel at home in Jerusalem.  I especially connect to holiness I feel being so close to the Old City.  And as our bus made its way outside of the city and into the desert I felt a sense of loss.  It helps to know in a few short months I will be back home again, but it is hard to leave.  I am reminded of what Uri shared with us at the beginning of the trip, one does not visit Jerusalem, one returns.

As we leave, we take the beauty and mystery of this place with us.  We come to Jerusalem as one person and we leave changed forever.  And we have so much more to experience.  Israel is filled with amazing corners and we are so fortunate to get to explore a few more before this trip is over.

We made our way north as we traveled along the Jordan valley.  We could see and almost touch the border with Jordan.  It is a simple fence with sensors on it in case it is disturbed alongside a dirt road that serves as a patrol road.  We also got our first view of the Jordan river as it weaves its way from the Kinneret to the Dead Sea.  Along the journey we learned of the first and second Aliyah periods where mass immigration to Israel (or Palestine as it was called) happened and a sense of Zionism was born.  These brave individuals worked the land with their hands and transformed swampland into the agricultural center it is today.  They were 15, 16 and 17 years old, and they succeeded against all odds.  Their story is inspiring for us as we face the challenges in our lives and rally shows the Israeli spirit.

Our first stop was Kibbutz Sde Eliyahu, an agricultural kibbutz of the border of Jordan and Israel that is literally changing the world through organic farming techniques and mass producing beneficial insects and mites for agricultural purposes.

Our visit started by meeting Benny, a kibbutz resident who served as our guide for our visit to the kibbutz.  First we all learned what a kibbutz was, a community where everyone works for the benefit of the community.  It was explained that everyone gives what they can and gets what they need.  All earnings are given to the kibbutz and each person, no matter what job they have gets the same exact monthly stipend to cover expenses.  All needs are taken care of by the kibbutz.  We learned that this kibbutz had a population of about 700 or 140 families.  We had so many questions for Benny about how the kibbutz worked that Uri had to stop us and keep us moving.

Benny gave us a tour of the facility, including the synagogue as this was considered a religious kibbutz,

a large field called the Square, where kids would gather and play,

and a music building where kibbutz children could learn and study music.  I was so interested in learning that almost all of the children living on the kibbutz studied music in some capacity.

We then made our way over to an orchard of trees that were planted because it is hot in the north of Israel and the shade provided a much needed sanctuary from the heat.  This type of tree had roots growing down from the branches that were great vines to swing on as our kids soon found out.

After swinging we boarded our bus and Benny showed us around the different fields that help to make up the 3000 acres of land owned by the kibbutz.  We learned about organic farming and the many benefits and drawbacks of it.  We learned that the reason they switched some of their fields to organic farming is because the fields lie directly next to homes where residents live.  When they would spray pesticides it would make the residents sick, so NOT using pesticides became a health issue for them.  We learned that organic crops produce almost a third less crops than traditional crops produce and the labor to keep weeds out of them is very expensive (actual workers pulling weeds rather than spraying herbicides).  It gave us a real understanding about why organic produce is so expensive.  

We then got off the bus to find and taste some grapes and corn (made for cattle).  Who knew that there were ears of corn grown for cattle to eat and another variety for people?  Turns out the ears of corn for people are much more difficult to grow.  The cattle corn was good, but tasted very pasty.  The grapes were DELICIOUSLY sweet.  

We learned of some of the advances they made in organic farming that were really quite simple and effective.  For example, one issue they had to deal with was keeping pests off the crops without using any pesticides.  Their solution? First, they grew the crops BEFORE the bugs could arrive.  Second, they would place a net over the crops to keep the pests out.  Both solutions wee simple and effective.

Benny then took us to a place where they were growing etrogs for Sukkot and other uses.  Each etrog was wrapped in a pink protective sleeve to keep the etrog smooth and not have it damaged by the sharp thorns in the trees.

We then learned about their alfalfa crops.  It turns out that mice love alfalfa and the kibbutz residents needed a solution to keep the mice from eating all of the alfalfa.  At first they would walk the rows of the field and wherever they saw a mice hole, they would place a teaspoon full of rat poison inside.  The mice would eat it and die.  They would be eaten by the owls, who would get sick and die, and the cycle continued.  Finally they came up with a brilliant solution.  They used the owls to hunt the mice.  They built these wooden boxes and placed them in the middle of the fields.  

The owls live here and hunt the mice.  It was so effective that they began to share this information with neighboring farmers who then built the same owl homes in their fields.  Once peace was reached with Jordan in 1994 the head of the program shared this information with Jordanian farmers.  In Jordan, owls were looked at as bringing evil and so whenever they were spotted they were killed.  Because of the success of the owl as a control for mice Jordan made a new law making the killing of owls illegal, punishable with jail time.  The cooperation between Jordan and Israel became stronger, such that the head of the organic farming at this kibbutz shared farming techniques that has strengthened relationships between Jordan and Israel.  Indeed this little kibbutz in the north of Israel is changing the world.  It was so nice for our travelers to learn that peaceful coexistence and even cooperation was possible and, indeed was even happening in the Middle East.  

Benny then took us to see a lulav tree, a date palm tree, and showed us how the palm is used to make a lulav.  It reminded me of the lulav and etrog garden planted by our confirmation class a few years back at TAE.

Finally, we were able to taste some corn that was grown for people.  And while the cattle corn was not so bad, this corn was amazing!

The coolest thing about this visit was to see the pride Benny took in sharing his home and all they have accomplished with us.  You could see his excitement with each stop on our journey, and his love of agriculture is inspiring and infectious.